By Ron Field, featuring images from the author’s collection
The United States and British Royal Navy enlisted sailors frequented photographic studios at home and abroad during the American Civil War period. The similarity of their uniforms pictured on glass, iron, and paper can be confusing to collectors and others seeking to identifying the tar as American or British. There are subtle differences in what was known on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean as “slop clothing” to indicate their home country. This gallery compares similarities and differences in what was worn.
Overshirts
Overshirts with square sailor collars were worn by both navies for dress and shipboard duties. The dark blue overshirt of the U.S. Navy was known as a “Jumper,” whereas the white cotton duck version worn for dress in warmer climates was called a “Frock.” Both dark blue and white overshirts worn by Royal Navy sailors were called “Frocks.”
UNITED STATES: Made of flannel, they had a small chest pocket and integral square collar of the same color. Some Civil War commanders ordered their crew to add narrow white trim to collar and cuffs. Some sailors had elaborate patterns embroidered on the bib, yoke, and cuffs for parade or shore leave. Undershirts were also dark blue and some sailors decorated them with patriotic patterns.
This petty officer wears a plain jumper. The “Eagle and Anchor” sleeve patch indicates his rank. A buttoned flap holding his black silk handkerchief is visible. A round, multi-rayed star patch at the center of his cap is a common feature.
This warm weather cotton duck frock was faced with dark blue “Nankin” cotton collar and cuffs. Clothing contracts list duck as “Barnsley sheeting,” likely similar to cloth produced in Barnsley, Yorkshire, England. His fall-front trousers feature 15 small buttons.
BRITAIN: Made of serge, a strong and resilient fabric, they tended to give the garment a fuller look. This was generally without embroidered decoration, although the square collar was light blue with white trim. Although not mentioned in British slop clothing contracts, white undershirts trimmed with blue were worn under frocks.
The full, blue serge frock with light blue collar indicates this sailor’s naval rating. The white rope lanyard around his neck also confirms his service. The horizontal red line on his upper sleeve is a watch mark. He wears his cap back to front to show the silk ribbon on the correct side—compensating for ambrotype process reversal effect, but hiding the ship’s name on his cap talley.
Warm weather white frocks worn by the Royal Navy were also usually trimmed with dark blue facings, as is the case of this sailor enjoying his beer and holding a palm leaf fan.
Jackets
A “blue cloth round jacket” had been dress or mustering wear for the petty officer and other ratings of the American navy from the time the first crews were signed aboard the new frigates in 1797. As it evolved, this garment was cut with a wide lapel, or roll collar, and usually had two rows of nine small buttons, plus four on each cuff, although some variation existed in the number of buttons. Likewise, the Royal Navy sailors had worn jackets of similar pattern since the late 18th century, with earlier examples originating in the 17th century.
UNITED STATES
Issued for dress or muster, the blue cloth jacket proudly worn by this U.S. Navy sailor likely has two rows of nine buttons on its front, plus the four buttons on each cuff. The neck of his undershirt is embellished with a small embroidered American shield.
Wearing the Royal Navy version of the blue cloth jacket, the rating of this Royal Navy Petty Officer, Second Class, with three years good conduct, is indicated by a small “Crown, Anchor and single chevron” at the elbow of his left sleeve. The badge on his right sleeve shows his level of expertise in specialties such as gunner, carpenter or sail maker. Under his jacket is a white duck frock with plain white collar. He has what appears a Second China War medal with clasp attached to his chest, which indicates he served aboard one of the vessels which bombarded the Chinese forts in 1859-1860.
Caps
Both navies provided their sailors with flat cloth caps. Those with the name of their vessel either painted or embroidered around the cap band were reserved for special occasions. Caps worn for everyday wear aboard ship were usually plain. Both navies had a small piece of black silk ribbon attached to the left side of the cap band.
UNITED STATES: Caps of blue felt sat flatter on the head, and had at the center of the top a small, round patch with multi-rayed star. Some had extensive embroidery patterns on their tops.
The ship’s name on the band of his cloth cap indicates that this U.S. Navy petty officer served on the Itasco, an Unadilla-class screw gunboat, part of the Gulf Blockading Squadron. A “Star, Eagle and Anchor” patch attached to the left sleeve of his blue flannel jumper marks his rank. His jumper also has a small chest pocket and small embroidered pattern on the bib.
BRITAIN: Caps generally had fuller, softer and plainer tops. Although not mentioned in British slop clothing contracts, white undershirts trimmed with blue were worn under frocks.
Straw hats
Both navies wore straw hats of similar pattern as dress headgear. They were known as “sennit” hats after an Egyptian reed from which sailors wove them. These hats were covered in black-painted canvas in cold weather, while non-covered hats with black ribbons around the crown, often bearing the ship’s name, were used in warmer climes. Their use by the American sailor dates back to the first cruises in the Mediterranean in the late 18th century. As U.S. Navy ships spread to tropical and semitropical waters, so too did the wearing of these hats.
UNITED STATES
This sailor has placed his sennit hat on the photographer’s chair for the best visual advantage. A small round, embroidered patch can be seen at the center of its crown, and a black silk ribbon is fastened around its crown. The brim is edged with black cotton cloth which may have extended under the entire brim to deflect the glare of the sun.
BRITAIN
This seaman served aboard HMS Hart, a four-gun twin-screw gunboat that was stationed in the Mediterranean and off the Malay Peninsula. Of similar pattern to that worn by U.S. Navy sailors, his hat also has an embroidered patch at the center of its top, and ship’s name on the black silk tally around its crown.
Handkerchiefs
Though both navies wore black silk handkerchiefs around their necks, the tars styled them differently.
UNITED STATES: Rolled and held in place by a tie concealed under the collar at the back of the neck, the handkerchief was buttoned down and held in place by small flaps located on either side of the neck, while being neatly tied in a bow at front.
BRITAIN: Worn more loosely without being buttoned down by neck flaps, the handkerchief was tied with a small band or ribbon at front rather than a bow. In addition, they wore a narrow white rope lanyard around their neck, which was sometimes hand-woven by the wearer. This often had a small, folding rope knife, or jack knife, attached. This prevented the knife from being dropped and lost overboard while the ship’s rigging was being manned. Although rope knives were also an item of issuance for U.S. Navy sailors, lanyards were not permitted until 1865 when Navy Regulations stipulated that, “Jack knives shall be worn with lanyards and in fobs.”
This sailor aboard the ship of the line HMS St. George wears his handkerchief loosely around his neck and tied with a separate piece of ribbon at front in Royal Navy fashion. His unusual patterned undershirt is non-regulation.
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